Luxor, Egypt

After three days at sea, sailing from Oman past Yemen, turning north between Asia and Africa into the Red Sea, it’s beyond exciting to dock at Safaga, Egypt. This is the closest seaport to Luxor. We take Luxor by storm. Twenty- one large tour buses, with over 600 passengers from our ship, travel through the desert in a convoy. We have a military escort all the way. We wind our way through barren mountains. Every now and then we see a Bedouin tent with a tethered camel, then a flock of sheep with young shepherd boys in their long galabiyas (caftans). As we begin to reach the more populated area, we see they have stopped traffic in both directions, and armed men hold back the traffic at every side street. In this way we go non-stop and are able to cover the distance in 3 1/2 hours. Everywhere we go, we are guarded and attended by men with rifles slung over their shoulders. Tourism is forty percent of Egypt’s annual income, so they do not want a recurrence of the massacre that happened a few years ago at the Temple of Hapshepsut, which we are going to visit today. In an act of terrorism, gunmen open-fired on a group of tourists, killing several. It took a few years of heavy advertising and assurances that the tourists safety if of primary concern, hence the heavy security, before travelers ventured back.
I can barely believe my eyes as we drive towards the Valley of the Kings, our first stop. I was here almost 25 years ago, right after I first began bellydancing (that whole journey is related in my book, DOORWAY TO ECSTASY.
Then, we flew into Luxor, checked into the Winter Palace Hotel, which was the only large hotel in a tiny town, and had to take a ferry across the Nile to get to the Valley of the Kings. Today, we drive across a large, modern bridge, along with throngs of traffic. Reaching the Valley, we board one of several trams that shuttles us to the tombs.
Did I forget to mention that it was 104 degrees in the shade? We stood among hundreds of people, our convoy plus so many other groups here during the Easter holidays, waiting to get into the tombs. There was momentary relief when we stepped in out of the blazing sun, but then it was just as hot inside. I think the mugginess came from the sweat of people dripping. But, the wall paintings and carvings were just as powerful as the first time I saw them. They have the power to lift one out of ordinary reality into a state of awe at their beauty and longevity.
On we went to the Luxor Temple, scene of one of the most profound experiences of my life. This time, I’m so happy to be sharing this with Richard. We move in and out of the different chambers, around the still standing columns, running our hands over the hieroglyphics carved in the walls. We find an out of the way, shady chamber, and I want to feel the energy of the place. I sit on a pedestal and lean against the column, as tall as the redwood trees at home. Once again, like the last time I sat here, the sweat is running down my brow as I fall into a deep, silent, meditative state. After a bit, my eyes open and I ask my higher self what I should remember and embody from this experience. At that moment, I hear a little splat and feel a wetness on my shoulder. A pigeon, sitting way up high on the top of the column, has decided to grace me with his dropping. I think it will take me quite a bit of soul searching to understand that answer from the Spirit.
After a ride through the almost unrecognizable city and an early dinner at one of the fancy modern hotels, we arrive for the Sound and Light Show at Karnak Temple, the largest ancient religious site in the world. We all gather at the entrance at sundown and the show begins. Dramatic music and powerful voices tell us the history of this complex, built over several centuries by over thirty different pharaohs. As we move further into the temple, different statues, columns, and obelisks are lighted and the pharaoh responsible for its creation tells us tales of his life and accomplishments. Then, we are ushered along a large square lake and take seats on bleachers overlooking the still body of water. A thousand people sit in the dark, but still uncomfortably hot evening, waiting for the show to continue. After such a long buildup and wait, we expect something spectacular. Well, the sound part was great— music and great dramatic voices continue to relate the history of this incredible temple. However, the light show part needs a lot of work. They need to get some pointers from Disney or Las Vegas. I don’t think I’m jaded, I can get off on some very minimal efforts, but this was less than that.
Then it was back on the bus to return to our floating hotel. This was an arduous journey, but a pilgrimage I am fortunate to have made again.