Istanbul Mosaic

I must be doing something right. The shore excursions office has blessed me with the opportunity to escort the perfect tour. At the bus I meet John, the Turkish tour guide, and off we go. First stop is the Hippodrome, inspired by Rome’s Circus Maximus. It was the most important place in the city, where all came to see the chariot races. We walk to the Blue Mosque where 21,403 azure colored tiles tint the atmosphere a translucent, iridescent blue. Next stop is Topkapi Palace, an exercise in extravagant excess. I have previously visited this palace, which is now a museum housing many of the most spectacular objects of art ever created. We have free time to view the different collections, many of them gifts to the sultans from around the world. The most famous is the sultan’s golden dagger with the three rock size emeralds set into the hilt. The great old film Topkapi thatakes place in the palace.
I rush across the gardens to the opposite side of the courtyard to visit the sacred objects collection. The rooms are packed with travelers, many Moslems from other countries, to see the possessions of the Prophet Mohammed. The atmosphere is hushed as a singer chants verses from the Koran. I am pushed along with the crowd, eventually coming to the exhibit I am curious to see. People are crushed up against a glassed-in display. They lean over the railing, peering inside. I finally make it to the front where I see a small round glass jar, maybe 2” in diameter, with a golden domed top. I am having difficulty seeing the contents and begin to think I just don’t have enough faith, that the object is hidden from my unbelieving eyes. Then I see what I think must be it. I was looking for something larger. Yes, there it is! I realize that’s it is only one tiny single short strand of hair, said to come from the beard of the Prophet Mohammed. Next to it is a tiny vial containing soil from Mecca.
I rush back to meet the group. We are going into the harem section. When I was here before, I was very disappointed that it was closed for renovation. For me, this area is full of fascination and fantasy. And indeed, walking through the entrance into rooms opulently decorated with tiles and stained glass windows, vaulted ceilings and gilded bathrooms, plush pillowed divans and rich patterned carpets, I realize that rather than the lavish life I imagined, this is a gilded cage. Women were brought into these rooms, against their will, to live out their lives among hundreds of other women, never to escape. All waited to catch the eye of the Sultan, to gain his favor. If they were lucky, their position might be improved if they became pregnant with one of his children. That was a mixed blessing though, as the jealousy among mothers of the sultan’s children was the source of much intrigue and many murders. In the enclosed courtyards, the only areas where the women could go out to enjoy the sunlight and fresh air, my fantasies come face to face with the reality of their complete lack of freedom. I once again am grateful for my life of choice and possibility.
We travel across town to have lunch at the Çirigan Palace, built by a sultan when he decided on more modern living quarters. It’s now a bright and shiny hotel. We eat in an upstairs restaurant looking out over the ships that sail up and down the Bosporus River. The buffet is luscious and I allow myself dessert. YUM!
Tour finishes inside Hagia Sophia, originally a church, the largest in the world for 1,000 years, then a mosque, and now a museum.
Well, that is only the beginning of an enchanted day in Istanbul. All guests on the ship have been invited by the President and Chief Executive Officer of Holland America Cruise line, who has flown in for the event, to a lavish reception in the historic Binbirdirek Cistern. The underground cisterns were built as reservoirs during the Byzantine era, this one in 330AD, to store water if the city was under siege. This one is now used as a venue for large events.
These folks really know how to throw a party. We arrive and walk down a red carpet into a vast cavern of a room. The vaulted ceiling is held up by 224 massive columns, as tall as trees. The pale stone of the floor, walls, ceiling and columns is awash in colored lights. Three movie screens are placed strategically around the room so those who can’t see the stage, in the center of the room, will be able to see the activities. We are lucky to get seats right next to the dignitaries, with a clear view of the platform. Tables and chairs are covered in white; flower arrangements add a touch of color. Waiters offer wines and all kinds of Turkish delicacies. A brightly costumed, strolling water bearer tips over and pours a luscious fruit drink from the container he carries on his back. I could go on and on about the fortune-tellers, the Turkish coffee carts, the flatbread baker rolling out her dough, the taffey-like ice cream makers, but the entertainment is about to begin.
A few acts, including various Turkish folkdances and a fire-eater, open the festivities. Among others, we are greeted by the U.S. Ambassador to Turkey and other local big-wigs. Then, of course, a bellydancer in a barely there, orange costume with a boa feather stole leaps onto the stage and steals the show. A Turkish Barbie, she is joined by other dancers, in equally tiny golden costumes, who move around the room inviting guests to dance. Soon the crowd is up and dancing. Again, I am so impressed by the go-for-it, joie de vivre of the mostly older, retired crowd of folks who have the time and finances to go on a trip like this. They dance like there is no tomorrow and are ready for more.
We are bussed back to the ship where the pool area on the Lido deck has been turned into a Turkish Dessert Extravaganza Bazaar. The ship’s bakers have been busy creating the most incredible spread of sugar confections in all shapes and sizes. Costumed waiters serve under tents surrounding the pool, which has a turbaned sultan on a flying carpet suspended a few feet above the water. Musicians play and a snake(not real) undulates up from a basket.
Wait! We’re not finished yet. Before we sail away from Istanbul at 11PM, we’re invited to the outside decks for a special sail-away event. Off the starboard side, a fireworks show begins. They are so close and so low and they burst into the air several at a time. It’s like the finale at most 4th of July shows and goes on for maybe 15 minutes. Spectacular! Then we push away from the dock and we’re on our way up the Bosporus on our way to the Black Sea and Sochi, Russia. How’s that for a fairytale?